“Come now, Guinevere,” said Miss LaFosse. “You must powder your nose again. It isn’t done not to. Last gesture before entering a room. It gives a sense of confidence.”
With trembling fingers, nervous, clumsy, contented, for the first time in her life, Miss Pettigrew powdered her own nose. “Do you know,” she said happily. “I think you’re right. It does add a certain assurance to one’s demeanor. I feel it already.”
-Winifred Watson, Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day (1938)
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The staple of many ‘30s women’s beauty routines (even if she used no other cosmetics), face powder surpassed even lipstick as the pillar of the cosmetics industry. Advice on its application, and the all-critical selection of just the “right shade for your skin type” used up a lot of ink in ad copy and newspaper columns, and beauty booklets of the period.
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Although liquid foundation (or “liquid powder” as Coty’s was known, advertised above in 1929) was available, it was not as widely used in the ‘30s as regular face powder. It would be applied then blotted with a powder puff or gauze, just as with face powder. Typically, though, when beauty books or ads refer to a “foundation” or “base,” they mean a powder base – a cream or lotion that would be applied to clean skin and provide a smooth surface for the application of the face powder and ostensibly make it “cling” longer. Some beauty houses, like Helena Rubenstein and Elizabeth Arden, had tinted foundations in flesh colored-shades.
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A favorite, basic powder base was Ponds’ glycerin-based Vanishing Cream (so called because it “vanished” into the skin), introduced in the early 1900s. It was often sold with their Cold Cream, for cleansing, as shown in this 1930 ad.
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Yardley’s English Lavender Powder, 1938 ad. It also features their Complexion Cream: "This versatile cream is also her freshening cream at night and her powder foundation in the morning.
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Factor’s powder brush came with a booklet “How to Create Beauty with Make-Up” that had these instructions for applying powder:
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1. Start powdering at the lower cheeks…Gently pat and blend powder toward center of face…Powder the nose last so that this facial feature will receive the lightest application of powder.
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2. Now with the powder puff, press powder lightly into the tiny lines around the eyes. Nose, mouth, and chin. This assures a completely powdered surface, which aids in effecting a smooth make-up.
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3. With the Max Factor Powder Brush…lightly brush away any surplus powder, clearing all lines at the eyes, nose, mouth, and chin, giving your make-up a velvety, even finish.
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Powder compacts from the ‘30s are fun collectables – they often feature great Deco designs, or commemorate a ‘30s event, such as the World’s Fairs. Many came in duos of rouge and powder, and even trios, of powder, rouge and lipstick.
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'30s ladies could easily have their compacts refilled with their favorite powder to be used again and again. You can make your own pressed powder by mixing some loose powder with rubbingrubbing alcohol in a small bowl, (the consistency should be like waffle batter; if its too liquid-y, add a little more powder). Scoop it into your empty compact and smooth. Let dry completely before closing. It isn’t as firm as pressed powder from a factory, but it works!
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Click here to see a stunning collection of compacts, from The Art of Allure: Powder Compacts and Vanities of the 19th, 20th and 21st Centuries from the Collection of Noelle Soren, University of Arizona Museum of Art, 2004. Also has good, reliable information about compacts and their makers.