Showing posts with label Makeup. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Makeup. Show all posts

Sunday, November 21, 2010

 Albert II, Sovereign Prince of Monaco is the current ruler of the Principality of Monaco and admirer of IT, a scary clown from Stephen King movie.

 Viktor Yushchenko is the third and current President of Ukraine, he played major role in that presidential election
and led to Ukraine's Orange Revolution , revolution took the name from his favorite make up color.

 Mahmoud Ahmadinejad is the sixth and current President and the main political leader of Iran and he loves purple.

 Silvio Berlusconi is an Italian politician, entrepreneur, real estate and insurance tycoon, bank and media proprietor,
sports team owner and songwriter and he denies "steamy affair" with 18-year-old model. He never denied his passion for lipstick.

 Fredrik Reinfeldt is the current Prime Minister of Sweden and Dr. Manhattan from "Watchmen" in spear time.

 Gordon Brown is the Prime Minister of the United Kingdom and Leader of the Labour Party. Brown became
Prime Minister in June 2007, after the resignation of Tony Blair . Memories of a Geisha is his favorite movie.

 Muammar Abu Minyar al-Gaddafi has been the de facto leader of Libya since a coup in 1969. Gaddafi has eight children,
seven of them sons and one daughter to borrow make up from.

 Hugo Rafael Ch?vez Fr?as is the President of Venezuela and a critic of neo liberalism, globalization, and United States foreign policy.
There is one thing from USA he likes and that is Marilyn Manson.

 Hu Jintao is currently the Paramount Leader of the People's Republic of China and the leader of 1,321,000,000 Chinese people
and he is apparently giving tribute to Ming Lee from South Park.

 Fidel Castro Ruz a 83-years-old Cuban politician, one of the primary leaders of the Cuban Revolution, the Prime Minister
of Cuba from February 1959 to December 1976, and then the President of the Council of State of Cuba until his resignation from
the office in February 2008. He is currently the First Secretary of the Communist Party of Cuba, famous for always wearing uniform,
smoking cigarette and purple nails color.

 Luiz In?cio Lula da Silva, known popularly as Lula is the thirty-fifth and current President of Brazil and he loves his national colors.

 Kim Jong-il is the de facto leader of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. CNN has described Kim as ?one of the most mysterious
leaders in the world? and we can see clearly they had a point.

 Dmitry Medvedev is the third and current President of Russia, he won the presidential election held on 2 March 2008 with
71.25% of the popular vote. Medvedev has thing for a goth lifestyle and dark make up.

 Jos? Luis Rodr?guez Zapatero, better known by his maternal surname Zapatero or ZP, is the current Prime Minister of Spain and he is giving tribute to Cabaret.

 Nicolas Sark?zy is the 23rd and current President of the French Republic. Sarkozy is known for wanting to revitalize the French economy,
he has promised a strengthening of the entente cordial with the United Kingdom and closer cooperation with the United States. His nickname,
"Sarko", is used by both supporters and opponents. He never mention about his favorite hair color, but looks like red is his favorite this year.

 Barack Obama is the 44th and current President of the United States, the first African American to hold the office and most popular
politician of all time. Many people called him a Joker and put a quote "Why so serious?" bellow his face, for sure he loves make
up just like bad guy from "Batman".

Vladimir Putin is the current Prime Minister of Russia and former President of Russia and KGB agent. Putin is a fan of martial arts,
air planes, hunting, nature and make up.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Miss LaFosse and Miss Dubarry powdered their noses.
“Come now, Guinevere,” said Miss LaFosse. “You must powder your nose again. It isn’t done not to. Last gesture before entering a room. It gives a sense of confidence.”

With trembling fingers, nervous, clumsy, contented, for the first time in her life, Miss Pettigrew powdered her own nose. “Do you know,” she said happily. “I think you’re right. It does add a certain assurance to one’s demeanor. I feel it already.”

-Winifred Watson, Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day (1938)
The staple of many ‘30s women’s beauty routines (even if she used no other cosmetics), face powder surpassed even lipstick as the pillar of the cosmetics industry. Advice on its application, and the all-critical selection of just the “right shade for your skin type” used up a lot of ink in ad copy and newspaper columns, and beauty booklets of the period.
Although liquid foundation (or “liquid powder” as Coty’s was known, advertised above in 1929) was available, it was not as widely used in the ‘30s as regular face powder. It would be applied then blotted with a powder puff or gauze, just as with face powder. Typically, though, when beauty books or ads refer to a “foundation” or “base,” they mean a powder base – a cream or lotion that would be applied to clean skin and provide a smooth surface for the application of the face powder and ostensibly make it “cling” longer. Some beauty houses, like Helena Rubenstein and Elizabeth Arden, had tinted foundations in flesh colored-shades.
A favorite, basic powder base was Ponds’ glycerin-based Vanishing Cream (so called because it “vanished” into the skin), introduced in the early 1900s. It was often sold with their Cold Cream, for cleansing, as shown in this 1930 ad.
Yardley’s English Lavender Powder, 1938 ad. It also features their Complexion Cream: "This versatile cream is also her freshening cream at night and her powder foundation in the morning.
Once the base had dried completely, it was time to apply the loose powder. Excess powder would be removed with a piece of cotton gauze or a soft brush made especially for this purpose. Carole Lombard demonstrates the Max Factor powder brush, c. 1934. From Max Factor’s Hollywood: Glamour, Movies, Make-up by Fred E. Basten. These are easy to find today, and should cost $10 or less. The brush itself is marked "Max Factor Hollywood."



Factor’s powder brush came with a booklet “How to Create Beauty with Make-Up” that had these instructions for applying powder:

1. Start powdering at the lower cheeks…Gently pat and blend powder toward center of face…Powder the nose last so that this facial feature will receive the lightest application of powder.
2. Now with the powder puff, press powder lightly into the tiny lines around the eyes. Nose, mouth, and chin. This assures a completely powdered surface, which aids in effecting a smooth make-up.
3. With the Max Factor Powder Brush…lightly brush away any surplus powder, clearing all lines at the eyes, nose, mouth, and chin, giving your make-up a velvety, even finish.
4. Thus, with Max Factor’s Face Powder in the correct color harmony shade is created a satin-smooth makeup that clings for hours…color perfect and flattering under any light.

Bette Davis reveals: “With my coloring…blonde hair, blue eyes, and fair skin… I use Max Factor’s Rachelle powder.”

Coty's Face Powder was a top seller of the 1930s. It appealed to society ladies and housewives on a budget equally. A Coty promotional booklet from c. 1931 proclaimed that Coty’s face powders “come to you, untouched, from sunlit laboratories where an immaculate staff guards every step in the process of its creation.” Their “skin-matched” shades, “true, imperceptible, sun-proof,” were: Blanche, Naturelle, Severose, Rose No. 1, Rose No. 2, Nacree, Rachel No. 1, Rachel No. 2, Mauve, and Ochre. Ochre-Rose, Cotytan, and Rachel Nacree. Ad above from 1934.

Coty’s “Air-Spun” powder, introduced in 1935. Then as now, it was sold at drugstores, such Walgreens. At the New York World’s Fair of 1939-40, visitors to the Maison Coty building (topped by the familiar “powder puff” box) could watch Air-Spun Powder in the making.


Ponds also sold face powder, but was no competition for Coty in this department.

A shiny nose was a beauty "bugaboo" to be avoided at all costs! Above: Lady Esther ad, 1934. Below: Constance Bennett, who would later have her own line of cosmetics and beauty treatments. We are pretty sure men didn’t notice (or care) whether Connie’s nose was shiny or not.


Charles of the Ritz, like many other high-end beauty houses, offered custom-blended powder. This ad dates to 1940. From the fabulous Duke University ads collection.

Powder compacts from the ‘30s are fun collectables – they often feature great Deco designs, or commemorate a ‘30s event, such as the World’s Fairs. Many came in duos of rouge and powder, and even trios, of powder, rouge and lipstick.
An example by Girey, noted for their "camera" style compacts.
Small Deco compact with an attached ring on a chain, so the compact could be held in the hand while dancing, etc.

A “tam-o-shanter” type compact with mesh-bottom, for carrying loose powder. A screen (sadly, often missing today) kept the powder in place.

Above: example of a powder compact screen. Middle: the "sifter" type. Lower: Coty Airspun compact of pressed powder.

'30s ladies could easily have their compacts refilled with their favorite powder to be used again and again. You can make your own pressed powder by mixing some loose powder with rubbingrubbing alcohol in a small bowl, (the consistency should be like waffle batter; if its too liquid-y, add a little more powder). Scoop it into your empty compact and smooth. Let dry completely before closing. It isn’t as firm as pressed powder from a factory, but it works!
Click here to see a stunning collection of compacts, from The Art of Allure: Powder Compacts and Vanities of the 19th, 20th and 21st Centuries from the Collection of Noelle Soren, University of Arizona Museum of Art, 2004. Also has good, reliable information about compacts and their makers.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Of all makeup, lipstick seems to be the most written about. Unfortunately though, most treatments of the subject tend to blip right past the 1920s and 1930s – the decades when lipstick gained widespread use and acceptance, and became a multi-million dollar a year industry, despite the economic Depression.

It was in 1920 that Max Factor, a pioneer of Hollywood movie cosmetics, began selling his line of Society Make Up to the public. This ushered in a new era of acceptance for lipstick, and cosmetics in general – even his blatant use of the word “makeup" was then new. Before the decade was out, he had also invented lip gloss (1928) and introduced the first commercial lip brush to the public (1929).

Joan Crawford with a lipstick in the handle of her purse, c. 1929.


The older generation may well have shuddered, as Dorothy Cocks wrote in Etiquette of Beauty (1927), at the younger generation’s “frank use of lipstick,” but within a short time, few fashionable women would want to be seen without theirs. According to Read My Lips: A Cultural History of Lipstick, a poll of 53,000 households conducted in 1938 (the same year that Congress passed the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, regulating the industry) revealed that 58% had at least 1 lipstick.

Indelibility was the major problem that plagued lipstick manufacturers during this era. Lipsticks had a tendency to turn bluish or purple after application, and made the wearer look ghastly. Almost all lipstick makers claimed their products to be indelible, non-drying, and creamy, but the first truly indelible lipstick would not be created until the end of the 1930s – again with Max Factor, now headed by Max Jr., – leading the way. His Tru-Color Lipstick came on the market in early 1940, but was heavily advertised in 1939.

The cosmetics industry may have expected sales to plummet after the Stock Market crash of 1929 and the subsequent economic downturn. But, just as women of World War II would cling to their lipstick as a sort of “red badge of courage,” so would Depression era women hold on to their lipsticks, if they could. One popular drugstore brand, Tangee, claimed its sales were better than ever. “1931 a year of depression?” read one ad from 1932, “Not for Tangee, the World’s Most Famous Lipstick and Rouge! More Tangee was used in 1930 than in the prosperous days of ’29, and even more last year than ever before!” High end companies like Elizabeth Arden, reported similar increases.

Tangee ad , 1931


Tube shapes varied by manufacturer. Some were tiny, bullet shaped. Others were long and crayon-like. They often came in a variety of sizes, at equivalent prices. Cases were metal. Early tubes had a sliding lever to raise the product, invented in 1915. This was soon replaced by the swivel technique still used today. A number of compact sets were sold as “trios” of powder, rouge and lipstick, all refillable.


Above: Clara Bow.
Below: Call her Savage! Many lipsticks claimed their color lasted, but it was the bunk before Max Factor's Tru-Color in 1940. Savage, a drugstore brand, in “jungle shades” with “thrilling perma-color,” 1939.


A Word About Lip Shapes
In the late teens, Max Factor created a lip style that came to be called “vampire lips” “rosebud lips” or “bee-stung lips” (depending on the type of character being played) for silent stars like Nita Naldi and Mae Murray. He made the lips this way: he blotted out the actresses’ natural lipline with greasepaint, then dipped his thumb into the lip pomade and made two impressions with it on the upper lip, and one upside down thumb print for the lower lip. The lips were then refined and perfected with a lip brush. He did this because the pomade of the time would melt under the hot studio lights and bleed onto the greasepaint of the actresses’ faces. We’ve used this technique to achieve a perfect, "early 20s lip" shape.



Mae Murray, 1923.


With new advances in film technology and makeup, by the sound era it was no longer necessary to avoid the lip corners and a more “natural” lip shape came to be used. Max Factor created a new lip outline for Joan Crawford, by slightly over-drawing her upper lip and emphasizing the fullness of the lower one. Factor called it “the smear” but it was generally known as the “hunter’s bow” lip. Many actresses and other women imitated this style in the 1930s.

Below: Jeanette MacDonald beautifully demonstrates the “hunter’s bow” lip, 1932.




Colors
As with nail colors, while red dominated, it was not the only choice available. There were also pinks, corals, tawny and rose shades, besides a wide spectrum of reds. In This Way to Beauty (1936), Helena Rubinstein suggested choosing rogue and lipstick colors to harmonize with your costume: with black or brilliant red, she suggested Chinese Red lipstick; with white, Red Geranium; for yellow, Red Poppy; with gray or green, Red Coral lips; for beige or brown, a Terra Coral lipstick; and with blue, purple, or wine red, Red Velvet or Red Raspberry lipstick.





Detail of a black & white ad for Coty’s new lipstick, 1925, from a high-end fashion magazine catering to wealthy women, called Modes & Manners. The 1939 color ad for Coty’s “Flying Colors” shows its newest shade, Magnet Red, “a dashing red, the makeup accent that your fall frock needs.” Other colors that year: Bali, Gitane, Dahlia, and Light.



Lablanche’s subtly advertised lipsticks, also from Modes & Manners, 1925. This was the year Lois Long began writing a column for The New Yorker under the pseudonym “Lipstick.”

Charles of the Ritz' Bonfire red, “A blaze of autumn color for your lips,” 1930. So that explains why our lips are burning!




This 1932 ad for Tangee confused us at first. Who is being quoted here – him? Or her? Oh, it’s him. Well, it was an honest mistake – after all, if she’s wearing a lot of “paint,” he appears to be auditioning for The Mikado. But we think they’re both overeating – he looks ready to punch her, and she says “I could have killed Tom…” Tangee used the tendency of the period’s lipsticks to change color to its advantage – it started out orange in the tube but unlike the others, “deliberately” changed color on application to harmonize with the wearer’s “natural, individual coloring.” It also claimed to stay on all day. Tangee is still available through the Vermont Country Store.


Cutex, primarily a nail enamel manufacturer, introduced the concept of matching lip and nail colors when they began selling lipsticks c.1934-35. Their 1936 colors came in Natural, Coral (warm), Cardinal (tawny) and Ruby (sophisticated).


1935 Tussy ad. Tussy lipsticks claimed to be not only indelible but scented. Did they get the idea from Hips, Hips Hooray?


Tattoo lipstick in “South Sea” hues, 1937.


Dorothy Gray’s “indelible” Daredevil red for fall 1939.

As we discussed in our Manicures post, Revlon did not enter the lipstick market until 1940. The company began advertising their new lip colors in late 1939, such as this ad from Vogue. Like Cutex, their colors were designed to match nail colors. Those first few colors were: Shy, Windsor, Sun Rose, Bravo, Jueltone, Red Dice, Chilibean, Tringar, and Mahogany.


Max Factor's Tru-Color being promoted in late 1939.







Sources Included:
Basten, Fred E. Max Factor’s Hollywood: Glamour, Movies, Makeup (1995).
----Max Factor: The Man Who Changed the Faces of the World (2008).
Ragas, Meg Cohen and Karen Kozlowski. Read My Lips: A Cultural History of Lipstick (1998).
Rubinstein, Helena. This Way to Beauty (1936).
Tobias, Andrew. Fire and Ice: The Story of Charles Revson, the Man who Built the Revlon Empire (1976).
Turudich, Daniela, and Angela Bjork. Vintage Face: Period Looks from the 20s, 30s, 40s and 50s (2001).
Woodhead, Lindy. War Paint: Miss Elizabeth Arden and Madame Helena Rubinstein: Their Lives, Their Times, Their Rivalry (2003).
Various period magazines, including Ladies Home Journal, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, New Movie Magazine, Photoplay, and McCall’s.

Top illustration: detail from a Judge magazine cover, May 1931, titled "Most Likely to Succeed"

 

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